Scene: Fall/Winter 2022, A.Potts designed by Aaron Potts. His collection was entitled “Skinfolk” as a tribute to the creativity and enduring spirit of diversity. Aaron was inspired by skin tones with a palette from pale blush to jet-black, sculptural shapes, and noir-romantics. The genderless collection featured 27 looks. The textures, which ranged from patent leather to sports mesh, with horsehair and boiled wool in between, created depth, especially in the 14 jet-black outfits. Opening New York Fashion Week was New York Men’s Day (NYMD) with five-brands in the morning including A.Potts and another five brands in the afternoon. It was sponsored by Perry Ellis America who showed at both sessions. Talent for the show: Hair by lead hairstylist Ken Hoang and team for Oribe, worked with the model’s natural texture for volume and freedom, Makeup by lead makeup artist Jessica Marisol and team for Aofm Makeup, Hats A.Potts x Caleb Ryan Wells, Bags A.Potts x Deirdre Wiggs’ YoursbyDee, Hosiery Hue, Footwear Sperry, and Venue Canoe Studios in Chelsea. Above photo, Jack Sajwaj wearing turtleneck and two layer cape with pants. Lead hairstylist Ken Hoang included headbands and bobby pins with cut and shredded horse tail and orange tubes of wire mesh, adding another dimension to his hair and to other models in the show.
Scene: A.Potts lookbook film.
Special thanks to Helen Oppenheim, US Correspondent for Peluquerias Magazine, archivist,blogger, and hair historian, for asking me to collaborate during Fashion Week.
Scene: Celebration of the Life and Work of Joey Mills. Joey was the first black makeup artist with a focus in fashion and editorial. The co-hosts, Vanessa Noel, Luxury Shoe Designer, Hotelier, Gallery Owner, and Philanthropist; and Barry Weinbaum, Creative Consultant; created a touching remembrance environment to honor Mr. Mills. The venue was at Vanessa Noel’s townhouse on the Upper East Side on April 2, 2022 which would have been Joey’s birthday. A memorable evening. Joseph R. “Joey” Mills of New York, NY passed on March 10, 2021 (note the photos below the words of the obituary). The tribute was delayed due to the pandemic. The walls were full of Joey’s makeup artistry including covers from Bazaar,Cosmopolitan, Essence, Glamour, Life, Mademoiselle, and Vogue magazines. Joey Mills was the groundbreaking African American makeup artist whose career broke down barriers. His fresh approach to makeup, coined as ‘natural glamour’ in his book New Classic Beauty, made him very popular with designers, notably Calvin Klein. Their work together started an eyebrow trend that is still popular to this day, as he preferred a full brow that was groomed and defined but kept natural in appearance. No dramatic arching or bleaching, which were popular at the time. Joey designed the makeup for the iconic 1980 ad campaign for Calvin Klein Jeans, featuring a young Brooke Shields and shot by legendary photographer Richard Avedon. Mr. Mills was lead makeup artist at runway shows for Calvin Klein, Valentino, Versace, Bill Blass, and Oscar de la Renta. He also designed the makeup for Cecily Tyson’s character in “The Corn is Green” on Broadway, the cult classic film The Eyes of Laura Mars, and several TV productions. At his peak he had over 1,600 magazine covers, more than any other makeup artist at that time.
Scene: Graham Murphy and Vanessa Noel, co-host. Vanessa shared with me how Joey and her met — “In 1987 I opened my first store, I began every morning by sweeping my store front. One morning I noticed this black man leaning against the corner of the building, he just stood there staring at me. It was very unnerving. He was there again the next morning. The following morning he brushed by me and entered my store carrying a big maroon leather postmaster shaped bag. He pushed all the shoes aside on my center table and began pulling out makeup. I kept telling him I didn’t want to purchase any makeup. He paid no attention to me and he respond “You must be Vanessa Noel, and you’re not in drag!” I said to myself I’m a woman, what is he talking about? He said “sit down! I’m doing your makeup.” He was commanding so I sat down. His touch was so professional with the application, I began to feel at ease. He did half of my face and showed it to me in a mirror. It was incredibly beautiful! He then completed the other side of my face. I was enchanted! I then kept asking “who are you, what is your name?” He was packing up his makeup and brushes and wouldn’t respond until he started to walk away. Just before he reached the door he turned with a swivel looking back at me and said “I am Joey Mills, and I will return every day this week to do your makeup.” “Now grab your broom and finish sweeping.” The next morning and every day after that week, Joey was waiting for me by the front door of my store. As promised he did my makeup every day that week. We became life long best friends and we spoke on the phone almost every morning at 7:30am. Brooke Shields told me “Joey must have loved your face.”Scene: Barry Weinbaum, co-host, and Helen T. Ginns.Scene: Gary Evans, Alaina Demopoulos, Debbie Dickinson, Freddie Leiba, and Nancy Donahue.Scene: Susan Gutfreund, Lucky, and Joe Pacetti.Scene: Lucky’s comfortable travel bag.Scene: Ginger McKnight-Chavers and Albert Narcisse.Scene: Joey Mills’ notebook. I loved seeing pages from his calendar book with polaroids of models, client bookings, times, locations, and photos of him with models. Vanessa Noel’s signature home fragrance, Stiletto, a gardenia and tuberose scented candle, left. And an invitation “Introducing Makeup for Woman of Color by Joey Mills” for cosmetic professions, right.Scene: John Turner, Darnella Thomas, Joyce Brookes, and John Atkinson.Scene: Barry Weinbaum, co-host, and Sarah Stavrou. I asked Barry how he and Joey met — “The first time I met and hired Joey was in the early 80s. I was an Art Director at Avon and was doing a Spring shade promotion. I had hired Patrick Demarchelier as the photographer, Kim Alexis was to be the model, and I was holding a makeup artist that I had worked a lot with previously who had already done a successful Avon makeup line launch for me. Bryan Bantry, who represented both Patrick and Joey at the time, asked me who I planned to use for makeup. When I told him the name, Bryan said to me: “Patrick wants Joey. And Kim Alexis really wants Joey to do the makeup.” I knew that Patrick would take a beautiful photograph even if the makeup artist was not his first choice. I have great respect and gratitude for Bryan Bantry, but I somewhat discounted his comment about what Patrick wanted since Bryan repped both Patrick and Joey at the time. But Kim Alexis strongly wanting Joey was another thing. I had seen and admired Joey’s work in the magazines, and I did intend to “give him a try” at some point, but I didn’t like to work with someone for the first time on an important project. Uncharacteristically, I did book Joey for the job. And it turned out to be one of the luckiest, most serendipitous events of my long career. When I met Joey, I gained the ideal makeup artist to help realize my projects and I also gained a lifelong cherished friend. Thank you, Bryan Bantry for “twisting my arm.” It turned out to be one of the best things that ever happened to me.”Jeffrey Banks and Vanessa Noel, co-host.Scene: Susan F. Sidor, Peter Bacanovic, and Debbie Dickinson.Scene: Sandy Linter, Freddie Leiba, and Harry King.Scene: Alaina Demopoulos.Scene: Yvonne Delaine and John Johnson.Scene: Joey’s book and magazine covers with Vanessa Noel’s shoes.Scene: Cocktails and flowers at the bar.Scene: Delightful offerings.Scene: More appetizing offerings.Scene: Sheila and John Atchison listening to Barry Weinbaum’s tribute to Joey Mills.Scene: The parlor of Vanessa Noel’s townhouse. Guests listened to Barry Weinbaum’s moving tribute with sadness, joy, and laughter.Scene: Barry Weinbaum, co-host, delivering his moving tribute.Scene: Sandy Linter and Harry King attentive to the tributes.
Scene: Elaine Korn, Joey Mills, and Sheila Johnson circa 1985. Joey, makeup artist, had just finished working with Bill Cosby who wrote Leonard Part 6 (1987) and Sheila, actress, had just finished a film starring Eddie Murphy Coming to America (1988). Elaine Korn was a good friend and Joey’s representative for a period of time. She was not able to attend this event, but sent Barry Weinbaum, co-host, these heartfelt words to read — I am so disappointed I will not be there to celebrate, not mourn, the life of Joey. But I am certainly there in spirit. With all my complaining to you over the years, with all the drama, with all the “on edge” adventures I am so glad to have known Joey. He was a force to be reckoned with and lived passionately and always full of life and glamour. Once when I told him “Joey they are going to turn your electricity off if you don’t do this job” he said “so I’ll live by candlelight. More romantic.” You can’t help but smile. The sun is shining down today my friend. I hope you can see from above how loved you were. We all honor you in our own way. Your work was groundbreaking especially for the black community. Your love for life lives on in the people who respected and loved you. Happy birthday, darling. I am wearing the lipstick you gave me today and will always think of you telling me “never go anywhere without some lipstick on your lips. Even if your house is on fire.” Happy happy birthday. Love and more love, Elaine
Scene: Loris Diran giving his tribute. Maya Monroe also spoke at the event.Scene: Photos of Joey with friends. The portrait at top, photographed by Harry King, was taken at Joey’s MAC Cosmetics event in 2011 honoring his phenomenal life and legacy.Scene: Sweet treats.Scene: Caught in the act of checking my notes of the guests names. Photo Harry King.Scene: Susan Fales-Hill, Nancy Donahue, and Sandy Linter.Scene: Maya Monroe, Vanessa Noel, co-host, and Marita Monroe.Scene: Sandy Linter and Barbara Neumann.Scene: Debbie Dickinson, me, and Barry Weinbaum, co-host. Photo Debbie Dickinson.Scene: Graham Murphy, Barbara Neumann, and Nancy Donahue in conversation.Scene: Barry Weinbaum, co-host, and Ronnie Grant.Scene: Freddie Leiba, Nancy Donahue, Sandy Linter, and Harry King.Scene: John Turner and Debbie Dickinson.Scene: Vanessa Noel’s luxury women’s footwear and accessories handcrafted in Milan, Italy.Scene: Loris Diran. Scene: Sheila and John Atchison.Scene: Mike Dean and Yvonne Delaine. He’s holding an Essence cover featuring Yvonne.Scene: Barry Weinbaum, co-host, yours truly, and Harry King. Photo Sandy Linter.Scene: Joey Mills’ assemblage containing his makeup application on an illustration, his glasses, hat, and shoes with his book New Classic Beauty on top. Vanessa Noel’s 24 karat gold covered alligator skin in background.Scene: Joey Mills’ visual tribute in Vanessa Noel’s store window. You really made a difference, Joey. Rest in Peace my friend. xox
Scene: Fall/Winter 2022, Hervé Léger’s Creative Director, Christian Juul-Nielsen’s collection showcased its iconic bodycon silhouette in a new way this season using knitwear in ways it had never been done before. Knitted bralettes were paired with matching skirts and long knitted gloves, while knitted dresses were shredded to give the illusion of fringing. A bold palette of pinks, purples, mint green, and yellow offers a bright Fall/Winter. Christian was inspired by the graphic works of James Turrell, 1960s Space Age fashion—think André Courrèges, and the high contrast style of photographer Irving Penn. Delicate airy mohair. Bright colors and geometric cutouts channelled the swinging sixties. Textured, heavy-gauge nylon yarn was knit into molded, bullet bra silhouettes reminiscent of the 1950s. Talent for the show: Hair by lead hairstylist Brian Buenaventura and team for Cutler/Redken, Makeup by lead makeup artist Sil Bruinsma with The Wall Group and team, Manicure by lead manicurist Nori with See Management and team using Essie, Stylist Ketevan Guaramadze, Casting Director Nicola Kast, Venue the Club Room at the Soho Grand Hotel. Above photo, Rachel Fox, One Management, wearing a knitted dress shredded to give the illusion of fringing.
Scene: Jasmyn Palombo, The Industry, wearing the bodycon silhouette.Scene: Elaine Palacio, Women Management, wearing the bodycon silhouette.Scene: Dipti Sharma, Kollektiv Management.Scene: Hannah Elyse, Fusion Models.Scene: Jasmyn Palombo, The Industry, wearing a knitted bralette, bandage dress, and gloves.Scene: Elaine Palacio, Women Management. Hair by Cutler Salon. Michelle Madonna’s dog, Magnolia, and makeup team on the side.Scene: Marta Aguilar, Muse Management, and Rachel Fox, One Management.Scene: Marta Aguilar, Muse Management.Scene: Jasmyn Palombo, The Industry, and Marta Aguilar, Muse Management.Scene: Dipti Sharma, Kollektiv Management, Mahi Kabra, IMG Models, and Rachel Fox, One Management.Scene: Dipti Sharma, Kollektiv Management, Rachel Fox, One Management, and Hannah Elyse, Fusion Models. Hair by Cutler Salon.Scene: Stylist Ketevan Guaramadze, checking the details of the outfit on Jiayun Xie, Identity Models.Scene: Jiayun Xie, Identity Models, wearing a sheer rib dress with pants.Scene: Jiayun Xie, Identity Models, and Mahi Kabra, IMG Models, wearing a knitted mohair turtleneck dress, shorts, and gloves.Scene: Stylist, Ketevan Guaramadze, reviewing the outfit on Mahi Kabra.Scene: Emilli Cestari, Elite New York City, wearing a knitted bullet bra silhouette reminiscent of the classic 50s. Scene: Daiane Conterato, Marilyn Agency, wearing a sheer rib dress with pants.Scene: Dipti Sharma having her hair styled by Cutler Salon.Scene: Daiane Conterato, Marilyn Agency, and Dipti Sharma, Kollektiv ManagementScene: Marta Aguilar, Muse Management, and Mahi Kabra, IMG Models, wearing a knitted mohair bralette, skirt, and gloves with pants.Scene: Hannah Elyse, Fusion Models.Scene: Emilli Cestari, Elite New York City.Scene: Dipti Sharma, Kollektiv Management, wearing a knitted dress shredded to give the illusion of fringing.Scene: Marta Aguilar, Muse Management, wearing a knitted bralette and bandage dress with knitted mohair gloves. The iconic luxury brand Hervé Léger, ubiquitously known for its unforgettable bandage dresses that celebrate the female form. Under the creative direction of Christian Juul Nielsen, the brand presents collections that revisit its original Parisian roots with an undercurrent of effortless, modern design. Framed through fresh color palettes, the latest collections display the evolution of Hervé Léger which includes its signature dresses along with a new assortment of items.Scene: Marta Aguilar having her hair fine tuned by Cutler Salon.Scene: Rachel Fox, One Management, Mahi Kabra, IMG Models, and Daiane Conterato, Marilyn Agency.Scene: Mahi Kabra, IMG Models, and Jasmyn Palombo, The Industry, wearing a knitted mohair turtleneck dress and gloves.Scene: Mahi Kabra, IMG Models, Elaine Palacio, Women Management, and Jasmyn Palombo, The Industry.Scene: Mahi Kabra, IMG Models, Daiane Conterato, Marilyn Agency, and Elaine Palacio, Women Management.Scene: Hervé Léger’s Creative Director, Christian Juul-Nielsen, with models. Hair by Cutler Salon.Scene: Hannah Elyse, Fusion Models. Scene: Daiane Conterato, Marilyn Agency, and Jasmyn Palombo, The Industry. Both wearing the bodycon silhouette.Scene: Jasmyn Palombo, The Industry. Hair by Cutler Salon.Scene: Jiayun Xie, Identity Models, wearing a sheer rib dress with pants.Scene: Elaine Palacio, Women Management.Scene: Mahi Kabra, Daiane Conterato, Jasmyn Palombo, Creative Director, Christian Juul-Nielsen, and Hannah Elyse.
Special thanks to Helen Oppenheim, US Correspondent for Peluquerias Magazine, archivist,blogger, and hair historian, for asking me to collaborate during Fashion Week.
Scene: Spring/Summer 2022, Korean designer Bomin Kim’s fashion brand, Bluetamburin, was presented as part of Global Fashion Collective, founder Jamal Abdourahman, at New York Fashion Week. Bomin wanted to express Korean and Western moods at the same time and to share the importance of self-expression and freedom in this collection. The collection included several nods to Kim’s heritage, like the black hat mirroring the traditional gat. Garments came in shades of blue and gray and were heavily accessorized. Blazers were accented by shimmering embellished sleeves, and paired with teal feather and floral arrangements. The looks were very structured, from the tailored men’s formalwear to their dramatic dresses. This collection is so uniquely Bluetamburin. Talent for the show: Hair by lead hairstylist Odete DaSilva, Artistex Salon Westport, Ct, and team, Makeup by lead makeup artist Monique Rinard, Aofm Makeup and team, Fashion publicist Emily Bungertfounder, EB Consults, and 608 Fifth Avenue was the venue.
Scene: Walking garment. The clothing was actually touched with a device and you could see a walking and revolving garment. The information and history of the piece is listed with this app from Bluetamburin. Scene: Creative Director and Fashion Designer, Bomin Kim, with models.Scene: Looking in the mirror.
Special thanks to Helen Oppenheim, US Correspondent for Peluquerias Magazine, archivist,blogger, and hair historian, for asking me to collaborate during Fashion Week.
Scene: Spring/Summer 2022 collection, titled “Salt Water” was set in a fictionalized Black resort community called Camp Aama referencing the Black community’s seafaring legacy and beach havens they fostered. Through clothing, the House of Aama set the scene in a vacation community similar to ones that flourished in the early 1900s in the US. “We really consider ourselves folklorists, telling sartorial stories through fashion” says co-founder Rebecca Henry. Talent for the show: Hair by lead hairstylist Anthony Hernandez and team for Cutler/Redken, Makeup by lead makeup artist Maite Moreira and team for NY Makeup Academy, Fashion Stylist Tiffani Williams, Wardrobe Manager Audra Gooch assisted by Myles Colbert, Casting Director Dionne Cochrane, and Freehand New York was the venue.
Scene: The LA mother and daughter brand are inspired by Black folklore. Founded by Rebecca Henry, a practicing lawyer, and her daughter Akua Shabaka, who recently graduated from Parsons School of Design, House of Aama clothing is produced and manufactured in Los Angeles, California. 2021 CFDA finalists Rebecca and Akua are carving out a vital space in the industry for fashion born from the Black experience. House of Aama’s collection “Salt Water”, as a term, is an ode to the Africans who crossed the Atlantic Ocean and survived the middle passage to the Americas, Black sailors, and the water spirits of Yemaya, Olokun, and Agwe that have served as spiritual anchors of African traditions in the diaspora.Scene: Debutante Silk Midi Dress.Scene: Cocktail Beaded Silk-Linen Midi Dress.Scene: Cut-Out Silk Charmeuse Gown.Scene: Cut-Out Silk Charmeuse Gown with House of Aama x Gianni Lee Sea Spirit Scarf.Scene: Henrietta Jumpsuit.Scene: Tattoo Mesh Turtleneck with Sailor Pants, Unisex.Scene: Azaka Button Up, Azaka Shorts with Embroidered Hat, Unisex.Scene: Maroon Victorian Pussybow with Sailor Suspender High Waist Pants, Unisex.Scene: Akua Shabaka fine tuning the outfit before the runway presentation.Scene: Crochet Cotton Tank Top. The woven net designs are reminiscent of fishing sea nets that would have been utilized in a seafaring community.Scene: Camp Aama Towel with Vintage Wooden Beaded Colorblock Swim Trunks.Scene: Anthony Hernandez, lead hairstylist, placing the HOA x Gianni Lee Sea Spirit Silk. “It is retro hair, 40s-60s Hollywood, inspired by black and white photos, the French Twist and Aretha Franklin.”Scene: Akua Shabaka, wrapped in Camp Aama Cotton-Blend Sweatshirt, wearing Tan Nude Silk Halter and Skirt Set and Model wearing Tattoo Bodysuit with HOA x Gianni Lee Sea Spirit Silk Sarong.Scene: Maite Moreira, lead makeup artist, putting on the finishing touches. “40s-50s look, authentic and classic with black eyeliner, a defined cat eye. The black girls and women were the pioneers of this look.” Scene: Sundown One-Piece Swimsuit.Scene: Clear Heels from Fashion Nova Los Angeles.Scene: Gianni Lee Sea Spirit Button Down with Tattoo Mesh Turtleneck, Unisex.Scene: Retro Ruched Bikini Set.Scene: Tattoo Bodysuit with HOA x Gianni Lee Sea Spirit Silk Sarong.Scene: Akua Shabaka wrapped in Camp Aama Cotton-Blend Sweatshirt and Rebecca Henry wearing Tan Nude Silk Halter, Skirt and Scarf Set before the show.Scene: Altars of candles, photos, flowers, and other items. House of Aama clothing collection explores a different facet of Black history and culture, from their Creole spirituality inspired Bloodroot Heritage Collection to this Resort Collection, Salt Water. “We definitely were a home that practiced a lot of different traditional African practices, as well as voodoo and conjurer work. I didn’t have a typical Black American experience, it was definitely more Southern-based, African-diaspora-based, working with nature and spirituality” said co-founder Rebecca Henry.Scene: Detachable pockets Sailor Jacket, Sailor Pants, Tattoo Mesh Turtleneck, Sailor Agwe Chain Stick Embroidered Hat, Olokuns Kingdom Canvas Duffel Bag, and HOA x Gianni Lee Sea Spirt Flag. Scene: Gianni Lee Sea Spirit Button Down, Tattoo Mesh Turtleneck with Sailor Pants, Unisex.Azaka Cabana Print Playsuit, Azaka Sailor Collar Top, and Azaka Cabana Midi Skirt and bag.Scene: Azaka Button Up, Azaka Shorts with Embroidered Hat, Unisex.Scene: Louise Strapless Dress.Scene: La Sirene Bodycon Maxi Dress. “In exploring the seafaring legacy, we highlighted water spirits, including the African La Siren, who hails from Haite. She is the mermaid and a patron saint of sailors” said co-founder Akua Shabaka.Scene: Sundown Cut-Out Silk Charmeuse Midi Dress and bag.Scene: Azaka Cabana Print Playsuit, Azaka Sailor Collar Top, and Azaka Cabana Midi Skirt and bag.Scene: Checkered Beaded Bikini Set. Scene: Whispers! Sailor Crochet Cotton Maxi Dress and Cocktail Beaded Silk-Linen Midi Dress.Scene: Stairway to the show at Freehand New York.Scene: Gianni Lee and Aaron Ramey.Scene: Artist Sydney Mikayla, Emmy nominated for ‘Trina” on General Hospital, ‘Wolf’ on Kipo and the Age of Wonderbeasts on Netflix. She is wearing an Earnest Official, with rings by Dara Ettinger.Scene: Sade Keinu and Tommy Playboy.Scene: Doris McGarry.Scene: Anike Thomas.Scene: Gabriella Baldwin.Scene: Lynn Yaeger, Contributing Fashion Editor to Vogue.com and a contributing writer to Vogue. She is a former reporter for The Village Voice, for 30 years with her column “Elements of Style” and contributes to other major publications. Yaeger is known for her eccentric personal style, powdered face and dark, cupid’s-bow lipstick as well as cutting her own hair. She is one of Marc Jacobs muses. Scene: Friends Doris McGarry, Anike Thomas, and Gabriella Baldwin.
Special thanks to Helen Oppenheim, US Correspondent for Peluquerias Magazine, archivist,blogger, and hair historian, for asking me to collaborate during Fashion Week.
