Scene: The relaunch presentation of Perry Ellis America at New York Men’s Day (NYMD) Fall/Winter 2022. It was a rebranding of an American fashion classic with a modern fusion of iconic and bold pieces. The reimagined heritage brand by Perry Ellis’s VP of Design Thomas Harvey was inspired by American landscapes – whether that be a beach in the Northeast, the urban cityscape or out in nature. Kicking off New York Fashion Week was NYMD sponsored by Perry Ellis America. The brand’s contemporary sportswear reinvention took on a new form with woolen overcoats, track suits, tops, bottoms, and accessories. Bold knitwear was designed with a reimagining of the American flag, recycled cotton denim was presented in contrasting blue-and-white chalk stripes, and bomber jackets received sleek fabric treatment. Collection highlights included a red-and-white hooded logo tracksuit, fleece full-zip jackets, insignia bucket hats and beanies, and oversized tote bags. Talent for the show: Hair by lead hairstylist Jenelle Oldham and team for Oribe, Makeup by lead makeup artist Jessica Marisol and team on behalf of Aofmpro using Dermalogica, Styling Jim Moore, Casting Trew Productions, Public Relations Agentry PR, Footwear Sperry, and Venue Canoe Studios in Chelsea.
Scene: Leather invitation, with debossed logo and event information, and craft paper string and button envelope for the original Perry Ellis America launch which I designed and produced. The invitation was for the press and guests. I worked with the fashion designer Perry Ellis. Heather from the advertising and marketing department called my advertising and design studio to set up an appointment to review my work in an interview with her and Perry. A few days later I was asked to join them to discuss various projects they wanted me to be involved with. The invitation was inspired by the leather Levis label on the back of the jeans. In 1984, Perry Ellis America was created in cooperation with Levi Strauss.
Scene: One of the ads I art directed for Perry Ellis America. Photographed by Douglas Keeve in Coconut Grove, Miami.
Scene: Perry Ellis America Fall/Winter 2022 Presentation.
Scene: VP of Design Thomas Harvey (center) with models wearing his new Perry Ellis America collection. Photo courtesy of Perry Ellis America.
“I don’t make fashion – I make clothes. The clothes cross all the points of my personal lifestyle. They’re to wear in the city or the country, to work, or to go out” Perry Ellis.
Special thanks to Helen Oppenheim, US Correspondent for Peluquerias Magazine, archivist,blogger, and hair historian, for asking me to collaborate during Fashion Week.
Scene: Design duo Tanner Richie and Fletcher Kasell’s Fall/Winter 2022 presentation “Housewarming Party” unveiled the brand’s first official in person presentation at New York Fashion Week. The stylish house party was a throw back to the late 60s and early 70s blending fashions of home and wardrobe, both modern and nostalgic. Tanner Fletcher is an emerging genderless brand based in Brooklyn specializing in responsibly designed ready to wear, handbags, pillows, and other small accessories that push the boundaries between masculinity and femininity. They are inspired by bygone eras, prints, and vintage interior materials such as upholstery fabric and wallpapers. “It’s fun to almost redesign something that was meant for a kitchen wallpaper into a piece of clothing. For example, the Ivy trellis pattern is a reference to a 30s kitchen wallpaper”. Talent for the show: Hair by lead hairstylist Mike Martinez and team for Cutler/Redken, Makeup by lead makeup artist Cici Chang and team for C.omak Makeup, Casting by Eric Cano of Cano Casting, Public Relations Jane Lerman of L.E.R. PR, Footwear Suzanne Rae Nomasei, and Venue Georgia Room at Freehand Hotel.
Scene: Moodboard F/W22. Photo courtesy of Tanner Fletcher.
Scene: Jjanga wearing Georgie Contrast Button Short Dress.
Scene: Colt wearing Rochelle Deep Neck Sweater, Winnie Lace Trim Boxer Short, Laurence Organic Cotton Pussybow Shirt with Trimmed Socks.
Scene: Suzanne Rae Nomasei footwear and Trimmed Socks.
Scene: Makeup by lead makeup artist Cici Chang and team with Calvin.
Scene: Makeup by lead makeup artist Cici Chang and team with Thea.
Scene: In the process. Hair by lead hairstylist Mike Martinez for Cutler Salons with Spencer.
Scene: In the process. Hair by lead hairstylist Mike Martinez for Cutler Salons with Spencer.
Scene: Spencer with his finished look. Hair by lead hairstylist Mike Martinez for Cutler Salons. Makeup and freckles by lead makeup artist Cici Chang and team.
Scene: Spencer wearing Simonette Pinstripe Belted Jacket with Sherpa and Simon Pinstripe Flare Denim Pant with Shearling. Keyshila wearing Tootsie Lampshade Fringe Blazer and Ruth Lampshade Trim Trouser inspired by a vintage lampshade.
Scene: Colt wearing Sylvester Lampshade Fringe Coat. The stand out and signature design at the Tanner Fletcher Fall/Winter 2022 Presentation was this Coat and Tailored Suit, above, both inspired by a vintage lampshade.
Scene: Calvin wearing Charlie Ivy Trellis Sweater Vest with pleated bell bottoms.
Scene: Madeleine wearing Ivy League Moire Track Jacket. Makeup and double eye liner by lead makeup artist Cici Chang and team. Hair by lead hairstylist Mike Martinez and team for Cutler Salons.
Scene: Anthony wearing Orville Ivy Trellis Cardigan, Darcy Smocked Button Down Shirt with Rhonda Pleated Denim Pant.
Scene: Anthony wearing Chandelier Crystal Earring, Darcy Smocked Button Down Shirt with Orville Ivy Trellis Cardigan. Hair by lead hairstylist Mike Martinez and team for Cutler Salons. Makeup and freckles by lead makeup artist Cici Chang and team.
Scene: Joe wearing Carlyle Floral Jacquard Pussybow Shirt and Clemence Floral Jacquard Pleated Trouser with Alvina Hand Knit Floral Sweater Vest.
Scene: Marcy Latch Leather Shirt and Trimmed Socks.
Scene: Hair by lead hairstylist Mike Martinez and team for Cutler Salons. Makeup, double eye liner and freckles by lead makeup artist Cici Chang and team.
Scene: Phil wearing Toxic Masculinity sweater. “Growing up as feminine gay boys in the Midwest, we have seen a lot of Toxic Masculinity and still see it today. It comes down to gender norms and the pressure for Men to “act” a certain way to maintain a certain amount of masculinity. In this collection, the Toxic Masculinity sweater was styled on a model with a beard and more masculine facial hair with a short pleated tennis skirt. The statement we’re trying to make here is that toxic masculinity is still running rampant and there is simply no room for it in modern culture”.
Scene: Hair by lead hairstylist Mike Martinez for Cutler Salons. Makeup and freckles by lead makeup artist Cici Chang and team.
Scene: Diarra wearing Elton Double Breasted Shag Carpet Coat, Barry Diamond Knit Polo Sweater and Pheobe Diamond Knit Lounge Pant, Dimitry wearing Foliage Hanging Basket Intarsia Sweater with Gus Corduroy Cargo Pant. Madeleine wearing Ivy League Moire Track Jacket and Ivy League Moire Track Pant.
Scene: Diarra wearing Elton Double Breasted Shag Carpet Coat. Makeup and double eye liner by lead makeup artist Cici Chang and team. Hair by lead hairstylist Mike Martinez and team for Cutler Salons.
Scene: Anthony wearing Orville Ivy Trellis Cardigan, Darcy Smocked Button Down Shirt, with Rhonda Pleated Denim Pant. Madeleine wearing Ivy League Moire Track Jacket and Ivy League Moire Track Pant.
Scene: Frances wearing Marty Spread Collar Silk Shirt with Beverly Flare Plaid Pant. Hair by lead hairstylist Mike Martinez and team for Cutler Salons.
Scene: Michael wearing Sandy Tapestry Blazer, Mauricio Long Sleeve Cotton Turtleneck, and Fran Tapestry Pant. Hair by lead hairstylist Mike Martinez and team for Cutler Salons. Makeup and freckles by lead makeup artist Cici Chang and team.
Scene: Diarra wearing Otis Gingham Double Breasted Blazer, Bianca Wide Leg Belted Trouser with Terrell Angora Knit Tank Top.
Scene: Samantha wearing Clementine Lace Trim Blouse with Frederick Wide Leg Belted Trouser. Michael wearing Otis Gingham Double Breasted Blazer and Connie Gingham Belted Mid Length Dress with Trimmed Socks.
Scene: Angel wearing brown and white dress from this collection.
Scene: Frances wearing Barbra Lace Trim Ribbed Stretch Shirt, Wilson Smocked Turtleneck, Fefe Flare Denim Pant with Suzanne Rae Nomasei footwear.
Scene: Saysha wearing Rita Double Breasted Floral Comforter Coat, Laurence Organic Cotton Pussybow Shirt, and Fefe Flare Denim Pant with Suzanne Rae Nomasei footwear.
Scene: Many of the male models had freckles by lead makeup artist Cici Chang and team. Hair by lead hairstylist Mike Martinez and team for Cutler Salons.
Scene: Makeup and double eye liner by lead makeup artist Cici Chang and team. Hair by lead hairstylist Mike Martinez and team for Cutler Salons.
Scene: Dimitry wearing Marlton Floral Wrap Blazer and Midge Floral Pant with Suzanne Rae Nomasei footwear.
Scene: Samantha wearing Marty Spread Collar Silk Shirt and Etta Elastic Waist Silk Pant. Joe wearing Clara Closure Trail Oversized Shirt and Sebastian Closure Trail Trouser.
Scene: Fletcher wearing Irving Oversized Chandelier Blazer, Kenny Tweed Trouser with Barbra Lace Trim Ribbed Stretch Shirt. Tanner wearing Sandy Tapestry Blazer, Fran Tapestry Trouser with Matteo Lace Trim Ribbed Tank. https://tannerfletcherstudios.com/
Scene: Freehand’s neon signage at the entrance.
Special thanks to Helen Oppenheim, US Correspondent for Peluquerias Magazine, archivist,blogger, and hair historian, for asking me to collaborate during Fashion Week.
Scene: Fall/Winter 2022, A.Potts designed by Aaron Potts. His collection was entitled “Skinfolk” as a tribute to the creativity and enduring spirit of diversity. Aaron was inspired by skin tones with a palette from pale blush to jet-black, sculptural shapes, and noir-romantics. The genderless collection featured 27 looks. The textures, which ranged from patent leather to sports mesh, with horsehair and boiled wool in between, created depth, especially in the 14 jet-black outfits. Opening New York Fashion Week was New York Men’s Day (NYMD) with five-brands in the morning including A.Potts and another five brands in the afternoon. It was sponsored by Perry Ellis America who showed at both sessions. Talent for the show: Hair by lead hairstylist Ken Hoang and team for Oribe, worked with the model’s natural texture for volume and freedom, Makeup by lead makeup artist Jessica Marisol and team for Aofm Makeup, Hats A.Potts x Caleb Ryan Wells, Bags A.Potts x Deirdre Wiggs’ YoursbyDee, Hosiery Hue, Footwear Sperry, and Venue Canoe Studios in Chelsea. Above photo, Jack Sajwaj wearing turtleneck and two layer cape with pants. Lead hairstylist Ken Hoang included headbands and bobby pins with cut and shredded horse tail and orange tubes of wire mesh, adding another dimension to his hair and to other models in the show.
Scene: A.Potts lookbook film.
Special thanks to Helen Oppenheim, US Correspondent for Peluquerias Magazine, archivist,blogger, and hair historian, for asking me to collaborate during Fashion Week.
Scene: Celebration of the Life and Work of Joey Mills. Joey was the first black makeup artist with a focus in fashion and editorial. The co-hosts, Vanessa Noel, Luxury Shoe Designer, Hotelier, Gallery Owner, and Philanthropist; and Barry Weinbaum, Creative Consultant; created a touching remembrance environment to honor Mr. Mills. The venue was at Vanessa Noel’s townhouse on the Upper East Side on April 2, 2022 which would have been Joey’s birthday. A memorable evening. Joseph R. “Joey” Mills of New York, NY passed on March 10, 2021 (note the photos below the words of the obituary). The tribute was delayed due to the pandemic. The walls were full of Joey’s makeup artistry including covers from Bazaar,Cosmopolitan, Essence, Glamour, Life, Mademoiselle, and Vogue magazines. Joey Mills was the groundbreaking African American makeup artist whose career broke down barriers. His fresh approach to makeup, coined as ‘natural glamour’ in his book New Classic Beauty, made him very popular with designers, notably Calvin Klein. Their work together started an eyebrow trend that is still popular to this day, as he preferred a full brow that was groomed and defined but kept natural in appearance. No dramatic arching or bleaching, which were popular at the time. Joey designed the makeup for the iconic 1980 ad campaign for Calvin Klein Jeans, featuring a young Brooke Shields and shot by legendary photographer Richard Avedon. Mr. Mills was lead makeup artist at runway shows for Calvin Klein, Valentino, Versace, Bill Blass, and Oscar de la Renta. He also designed the makeup for Cecily Tyson’s character in “The Corn is Green” on Broadway, the cult classic film The Eyes of Laura Mars, and several TV productions. At his peak he had over 1,600 magazine covers, more than any other makeup artist at that time.
Scene: Graham Murphy and Vanessa Noel, co-host. Vanessa shared with me how Joey and her met — “In 1987 I opened my first store, I began every morning by sweeping my store front. One morning I noticed this black man leaning against the corner of the building, he just stood there staring at me. It was very unnerving. He was there again the next morning. The following morning he brushed by me and entered my store carrying a big maroon leather postmaster shaped bag. He pushed all the shoes aside on my center table and began pulling out makeup. I kept telling him I didn’t want to purchase any makeup. He paid no attention to me and he respond “You must be Vanessa Noel, and you’re not in drag!” I said to myself I’m a woman, what is he talking about? He said “sit down! I’m doing your makeup.” He was commanding so I sat down. His touch was so professional with the application, I began to feel at ease. He did half of my face and showed it to me in a mirror. It was incredibly beautiful! He then completed the other side of my face. I was enchanted! I then kept asking “who are you, what is your name?” He was packing up his makeup and brushes and wouldn’t respond until he started to walk away. Just before he reached the door he turned with a swivel looking back at me and said “I am Joey Mills, and I will return every day this week to do your makeup.” “Now grab your broom and finish sweeping.” The next morning and every day after that week, Joey was waiting for me by the front door of my store. As promised he did my makeup every day that week. We became life long best friends and we spoke on the phone almost every morning at 7:30am. Brooke Shields told me “Joey must have loved your face.”Scene: Barry Weinbaum, co-host, and Helen T. Ginns.Scene: Gary Evans, Alaina Demopoulos, Debbie Dickinson, Freddie Leiba, and Nancy Donahue.Scene: Susan Gutfreund, Lucky, and Joe Pacetti.Scene: Lucky’s comfortable travel bag.Scene: Ginger McKnight-Chavers and Albert Narcisse.Scene: Joey Mills’ notebook. I loved seeing pages from his calendar book with polaroids of models, client bookings, times, locations, and photos of him with models. Vanessa Noel’s signature home fragrance, Stiletto, a gardenia and tuberose scented candle, left. And an invitation “Introducing Makeup for Woman of Color by Joey Mills” for cosmetic professions, right.Scene: John Turner, Darnella Thomas, Joyce Brookes, and John Atkinson.Scene: Barry Weinbaum, co-host, and Sarah Stavrou. I asked Barry how he and Joey met — “The first time I met and hired Joey was in the early 80s. I was an Art Director at Avon and was doing a Spring shade promotion. I had hired Patrick Demarchelier as the photographer, Kim Alexis was to be the model, and I was holding a makeup artist that I had worked a lot with previously who had already done a successful Avon makeup line launch for me. Bryan Bantry, who represented both Patrick and Joey at the time, asked me who I planned to use for makeup. When I told him the name, Bryan said to me: “Patrick wants Joey. And Kim Alexis really wants Joey to do the makeup.” I knew that Patrick would take a beautiful photograph even if the makeup artist was not his first choice. I have great respect and gratitude for Bryan Bantry, but I somewhat discounted his comment about what Patrick wanted since Bryan repped both Patrick and Joey at the time. But Kim Alexis strongly wanting Joey was another thing. I had seen and admired Joey’s work in the magazines, and I did intend to “give him a try” at some point, but I didn’t like to work with someone for the first time on an important project. Uncharacteristically, I did book Joey for the job. And it turned out to be one of the luckiest, most serendipitous events of my long career. When I met Joey, I gained the ideal makeup artist to help realize my projects and I also gained a lifelong cherished friend. Thank you, Bryan Bantry for “twisting my arm.” It turned out to be one of the best things that ever happened to me.”Jeffrey Banks and Vanessa Noel, co-host.Scene: Susan F. Sidder, Peter Bacanovic, and Debbie Dickinson.Scene: Sandy Linter, Freddie Leiba, and Harry King.Scene: Alaina Demopoulos.Scene: Yvonne Delaine and John Johnson.Scene: Joey’s book and magazine covers with Vanessa Noel’s shoes.Scene: Cocktails and flowers at the bar.Scene: Delightful offerings.Scene: More appetizing offerings.Scene: Sheila and John Atchison listening to Barry Weinbaum’s tribute to Joey Mills.Scene: The parlor of Vanessa Noel’s townhouse. Guests listened to Barry Weinbaum’s moving tribute with sadness, joy, and laughter.Scene: Barry Weinbaum, co-host, delivering his moving tribute.Scene: Sandy Linter and Harry King attentive to the tributes.Scene: Loris Diran giving his tribute. Maya Monroe also spoke at the event.Scene: Photos of Joey with friends. The portrait at top, photographed by Harry King, was taken at Joey’s MAC Cosmetics event in 2011 honoring his phenomenal life and legacy.Scene: Sweet treats.Scene: Caught in the act of checking my notes of the guests names. Photo Harry King.Scene: Susan Fales-Hill, Nancy Donahue, and Sandy Linter.Scene: Maya Monroe, Vanessa Noel, co-host, and Marita Monroe.Scene: Sandy Linter and Barbara Neumann.Scene: Debbie Dickinson, me, and Barry Weinbaum, co-host. Photo Debbie Dickinson.Scene: Graham Murphy, Barbara Neumann, and Nancy Donahue in conversation.Scene: Barry Weinbaum, co-host, and Ronnie Grant.Scene: Freddie Leiba, Nancy Donahue, Sandy Linter, and Harry King.Scene: John Turner and Debbie Dickinson.Scene: Vanessa Noel’s luxury women’s footwear and accessories handcrafted in Milan, Italy.Scene: Loris Diran. Scene: Sheila and John Atchison.Scene: Mike Dean and Yvonne Delaine. He’s holding an Essence cover featuring Yvonne.Scene: Barry Weinbaum, co-host, yours truly, and Harry King. Photo Sandy Linter.Scene: Joey Mills’ assemblage containing his makeup application on an illustration, his glasses, hat, and shoes with his book New Classic Beauty on top. Vanessa Noel’s 24 karat gold covered alligator skin in background.Scene: Joey Mills’ visual tribute in Vanessa Noel’s store window. You really made a difference, Joey. Rest in Peace my friend. xox
Scene: Fall/Winter 2022, Hervé Léger’s Creative Director, Christian Juul-Nielsen’s collection showcased its iconic bodycon silhouette in a new way this season using knitwear in ways it had never been done before. Knitted bralettes were paired with matching skirts and long knitted gloves, while knitted dresses were shredded to give the illusion of fringing. A bold palette of pinks, purples, mint green, and yellow offers a bright Fall/Winter. Christian was inspired by the graphic works of James Turrell, 1960s Space Age fashion—think André Courrèges, and the high contrast style of photographer Irving Penn. Delicate airy mohair. Bright colors and geometric cutouts channelled the swinging sixties. Textured, heavy-gauge nylon yarn was knit into molded, bullet bra silhouettes reminiscent of the 1950s. Talent for the show: Hair by lead hairstylist Brian Buenaventura and team for Cutler/Redken, Makeup by lead makeup artist Sil Bruinsma with The Wall Group and team, Manicure by lead manicurist Nori with See Management and team using Essie, Stylist Ketevan Guaramadze, Casting Director Nicola Kast, Venue the Club Room at the Soho Grand Hotel. Above photo, Rachel Fox, One Management, wearing a knitted dress shredded to give the illusion of fringing.
Scene: Jasmyn Palombo, The Industry, wearing the bodycon silhouette.Scene: Elaine Palacio, Women Management, wearing the bodycon silhouette.Scene: Dipti Sharma, Kollektiv Management.Scene: Hannah Elyse, Fusion Models.Scene: Jasmyn Palombo, The Industry, wearing a knitted bralette, bandage dress, and gloves.Scene: Elaine Palacio, Women Management. Hair by Cutler Salon. Michelle Madonna’s dog, Magnolia, and makeup team on the side.Scene: Marta Aguilar, Muse Management, and Rachel Fox, One Management.Scene: Marta Aguilar, Muse Management.Scene: Jasmyn Palombo, The Industry, and Marta Aguilar, Muse Management.Scene: Dipti Sharma, Kollektiv Management, Mahi Kabra, IMG Models, and Rachel Fox, One Management.Scene: Dipti Sharma, Kollektiv Management, Rachel Fox, One Management, and Hannah Elyse, Fusion Models. Hair by Cutler Salon.Scene: Stylist Ketevan Guaramadze, checking the details of the outfit on Jiayun Xie, Identity Models.Scene: Jiayun Xie, Identity Models, wearing a sheer rib dress with pants.Scene: Jiayun Xie, Identity Models, and Mahi Kabra, IMG Models, wearing a knitted mohair turtleneck dress, shorts, and gloves.Scene: Stylist, Ketevan Guaramadze, reviewing the outfit on Mahi Kabra.Scene: Emilli Cestari, Elite New York City, wearing a knitted bullet bra silhouette reminiscent of the classic 50s. Scene: Daiane Conterato, Marilyn Agency, wearing a sheer rib dress with pants.Scene: Dipti Sharma having her hair styled by Cutler Salon.Scene: Daiane Conterato, Marilyn Agency, and Dipti Sharma, Kollektiv ManagementScene: Marta Aguilar, Muse Management, and Mahi Kabra, IMG Models, wearing a knitted mohair bralette, skirt, and gloves with pants.Scene: Hannah Elyse, Fusion Models.Scene: Emilli Cestari, Elite New York City.Scene: Dipti Sharma, Kollektiv Management, wearing a knitted dress shredded to give the illusion of fringing.Scene: Marta Aguilar, Muse Management, wearing a knitted bralette and bandage dress with knitted mohair gloves. The iconic luxury brand Hervé Léger, ubiquitously known for its unforgettable bandage dresses that celebrate the female form. Under the creative direction of Christian Juul Nielsen, the brand presents collections that revisit its original Parisian roots with an undercurrent of effortless, modern design. Framed through fresh color palettes, the latest collections display the evolution of Hervé Léger which includes its signature dresses along with a new assortment of items.Scene: Marta Aguilar having her hair fine tuned by Cutler Salon.Scene: Rachel Fox, One Management, Mahi Kabra, IMG Models, and Daiane Conterato, Marilyn Agency.Scene: Mahi Kabra, IMG Models, and Jasmyn Palombo, The Industry, wearing a knitted mohair turtleneck dress and gloves.Scene: Mahi Kabra, IMG Models, Elaine Palacio, Women Management, and Jasmyn Palombo, The Industry.Scene: Mahi Kabra, IMG Models, Daiane Conterato, Marilyn Agency, and Elaine Palacio, Women Management.Scene: Hervé Léger’s Creative Director, Christian Juul-Nielsen, with models. Hair by Cutler Salon.Scene: Hannah Elyse, Fusion Models. Scene: Daiane Conterato, Marilyn Agency, and Jasmyn Palombo, The Industry. Both wearing the bodycon silhouette.Scene: Jasmyn Palombo, The Industry. Hair by Cutler Salon.Scene: Jiayun Xie, Identity Models, wearing a sheer rib dress with pants.Scene: Elaine Palacio, Women Management.Scene: Mahi Kabra, Daiane Conterato, Jasmyn Palombo, Creative Director, Christian Juul-Nielsen, and Hannah Elyse.
Special thanks to Helen Oppenheim, US Correspondent for Peluquerias Magazine, archivist,blogger, and hair historian, for asking me to collaborate during Fashion Week.
