Scene: Behind the scenes and to the runway with HIM Autumn/Winter Collection “Evening Ceremony: Rituals of Love & Devotion” Presentation at New York Men’s Day during Fashion Week. Designer Pablo Leon founded the label in 2018. As stated on the CFDA website — Pablo Leon, feeling a need to express his queer and brown identity in a climate focused on its erasure. HIM NYC characterizes the disruption of classic tailoring techniques, ideals of masculinity, machismo, and gender constructs, creating an aesthetic that is romantically minimal and eclectic.
Mexico born, California raised, Leon studied fashion design for just a couple years before dropping out and working for LA based designer Cynthia Vincent. He moved to New York for an opportunity with Phillip Lim, and later Carlos Campos.
Above photo, Donovan Santos, model with Next, in the process and getting his hair styled and dressing. Talent for the show: hair by Oribe team, lead hairstylist Mandee Tauber; makeup by Makeup Pro New York, lead makeup artist Chika. Stylist P. León and Alvaro Romero; casting Brent Chua. Shoes throughout Dr. Martens.
Scene: Mood board. The ethereal presentation, some might consider this collection to be gender-fluid. Gender-fluid fashion is about embracing non-binary clothing, styles, and brands without social norms or constraints on fashion. The presentation included the ballet soloist, Jovani Furlan, in the middle and a crescent of male models performing. The atmosphere was accompanied with angelic music, a simple set, and the warm glow of candle light. Laced with a romantic theme, the garments have Catholic references with crosses, rosaries, and inspiration from liturgical vestments like the alb (latin albus, meaning white), an ample white garment which is usually belted with rope. Simply the long, white linen tunic used by the ancient Romans.
Scene: Charlie Calmari, model and personal trainer, in the process of getting ready.
Scene: Keen, model with EMG Models, and Pablo Leon, HIM designer, fine turning the sleeve details.
Scene: Pablo Leon finessing the collar on Keen.
Scene: Ryu Aguilar, model with Next, and Mandee Tauber, lead hairstylist for Oribe.
Scene: Oribe hairstylist and Charlie Calmari.
Scene: Ezekiel Luna, model with Bri’geid Agency, and Mandee Tauber, lead hairstylist for Oribe.
Scene: Ezekiel Luna getting dressed for the show.
Scene: Donovan Santos, model with Next, and Pablo Leon, HIM designer, adjusting the rosary.
Scene: Finn Doering, model with Click and student at Parsons, under the dryer.
Scene: Wavey flowing hair, pearl earring, and “are you in love?” inscription. Finn Doering ready to go.
Scene: Mike, model, wears a collarless quilted piped jacket.
Scene: Mike wearing a pair of drop crotch pants with collarless quilted piped jacket.
Scene: Full length fashion view.
Scene: Close up view.
Scene: Ryu Aguilar, model with Next, getting his makeup done.
Scene: Keem, model with EMG Models.
Scene: The wrap of eyelet trim around the wrist, which flows down from one to the other and is also on the collar.
Scene: @h3ll_child, model with Next, Streetwear designer @bleachnyc.com, and skateboarder.
Scene: Spotted.
Scene: Finn Doering, model with Click, wearing a long sleeve sheer blue shirt, pull over vest with extensions, and white satin cuffed trousers.
Scene: Detail view of sheer blue shirt and pull over vest.
Scene: Charlie Calmari, model and personal trainer, wearing Rehecho/Remade. The sleeve gloves and pants were created using up-cycled pieces found at Neighborhood Industries and Black Marketplace. The goal, to bring awareness to the importance of sustainability within the fashion industry. Old becomes new.
When I was a professor at Marist College, Fashion Design Department, in my Creative Process course this concept of up-cyling, reinventing, and repurposing clothing and accessororis was explored with my students.
Scene: Charlie Calmari wearing necklace of pearls with pendant and chain with Crucifix.
Scene: Ezekiel Luna, model with Bri’geid Agency.
Scene: Evening Ceremony: Rituals of Love & Devotion. The collection with Jovani Furlan, ballet soloist, performing in the middle of a crescent of male models while they individually walked the path to front center.
Scene: Mike, model, who is walking is wearing the convertible anorak cape, white satin cuffed trousers, and royal velvet mock neck shirt.
Scene: Jovani Furlan is a soloist with New York City Ballet. Born in Joinville, Brazil. He started dancing the age of 11 at The Bolshoi Theater School in Brazil. In 2010 he participated in the International Ballet Competition in Jackson, Mississippi, and was offered a full scholarship to attend the Miami City Ballet School and joined the Miami City Ballet in 2012. He was promoted to soloist in 2015 and was named a MCB principle dancer in 2017. His repertory of feature roles included George Balanchine’s Allegro Brilliante, Ballet Imperial, Jewels, A midsummer Night’s Dream and several others. He has also performed works by Richard Alston, Paul Taylor, Twyla Tharp, and many others.
Scene: Donovan Santos, model with Next. “In the church at night” Him
Scene: Patent leather and sock garters.
Scene: Donovan Santos wearing open weave mesh shirt, shimmering taupe shirt, and navy blue coat.
Scene: Amir Irl, model, wearing double breasted suit and royal velvet mock neck shirt.
Scene: Ryu Aguilar, model with Next.
Scene: Jeremiah Torres, model with Next, with pearl buttons.
Scene: Black floor length coat with sash belt.
Scene: Viktor Alexis, model at EMG Models and mathematician at Refinery29 and Vice. “An angle in black” Him
Scene: Jovani Furlan, light, graceful, fluid movements.
Scene: Ezekiel Luna, model with Bri’geid Agency. “Hope Is Mine” Him
Scene: Ezekiel Luna walks the crescent…
Scene: And back to his position…
Scene: As Jovani Furlan performs.
Scene: Pablo Leon, HIM designer, with talent at the finale.
Scene: The white cape flows as the other white garment leaps. Motion. The angelic music lifts and soothes, poetic words mixed in, high and low notes, as it brings you away… the candles burn.
Scene: The custom handmade collar. Unveiled.
“Thoughts of love going through my head today” Him
A special thank you to Helen Oppenheim, US Correspondent for Peluquerias Magazine, archivist, blogger, and hair guru, for asking me to collaborate during Fashion Week.