NYMD Fall/Winter 2022

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New York Men’s Day opened New York Fashion Week sponsored by Perry Ellis America at Canoe Studios in Chelsea. Here are five designers who presented: Teddy von Ranson, Stan, Nicholas Raefski, Clara Son, and Atelier Cillian.

Scene: Teddy von Ranson’s metaphorical collection “North Beach”. Impressed by the similar ways surfers, skiers, and snowboarders layer technical fashion pieces, he reimagined an assortment of clothing. Now the man is one. He surfs in the Pacific and the Atlantic all year, skis and snowboards from Lake Placid to Aspen to Mammoth, kitted out with playfulness and mastery.
Teddy von Ranson effectively layers the effortless cool west coast sentiment with east coast discernment to advance his story of the modern American man. The best parts of the collection are the genius ways in which Teddy experiments with prints, textures, and color waves.
Talent for the show: Hair by lead hairstylist Christian Ceja-Compin and team for Oribe, Makeup by lead makeup artist Monique Rinard and team for AOFMPro, Stylists David Vivirido. Footwear a reimagined vintage-style ski boot with lug soles. Model above Jaden Edlund.

Scene: Designer Teddy von Ranson (center) with models.
“I wanted to explore literal and metaphorical winter beaches: the die-hard surfers in the chilly winter waters of California and the ice capped breakers of northeastern beaches, the slopes from Lake Placid to Aspen to Mammoth where moguls and half pipes emulate the waves”.
Teddy von Ranson




Scene: STAN by designer Tristan Detwiler titled “The Rugged Gentleman”. Since the brand’s inception, Detwiler has sourced and upcycled antique textiles with rich historical backstories. This season was less surfwear, more party wear. “I wanted to present a more formal gentleman character, the kind that goes out for an evening on the town,” he explained.
Navajo blankets feature prominently in the collection, some of which date back to the late 1870’s when The Hubbell Trading Post was established on the Navajo Nation. This exploration of textiles continues with antique fabrics as far ranging from the 18th century to the 19th century.
Talent for the show: Hair by lead hairstylist Cobe Alcantar and team for Oribe, Makeup by lead makeup artist Monique Rinard and team for AOFMPro using Dermalogica, Footwear Sperry.
Above photo, my friends Tony Spinelli and Alva Chinn. Tony is wearing trousers and an overcoat made from a 1916 all black wool crazy quilt. Tony, an iconic male model in the 70’s was on the premier cover of Vogue Men photographed by Irving Penn. He appeared in Halston’s debut ad campaign and Richard Avedon’s work for Versace. Alva Chinn is wearing an evening gown of 19th Century silk brocade drapes from a little chateau in France. The pioneering model made her name on the runways of Halston, Yves Saint Laurent, and Chanel in the 70’s and made history walking for Halston at the legendary Battle of Versailles Fashion Show. 

Scene: Designer Tristan Detwiler (third from left) with models, and Clair (far left) from the now non-existent Yardage Town. In 2019 she welcomed Tristan into her quilting group and shared her lifelong passion for quilting with him.
“I looked to my paternal grandfather as a muse for this collection, Robert Stanley Detwiler. In my eyes, Bob always embodied the idea of a perfect gentleman. As a salesman in the 50’s, Bob wore a three-piece suit and a hat every day. A man of few words, he is remembered for his charming tip of the hat accompanied by a warm smile. I made that into my own, by crossing it with a more adventurous, rugged spirit”. Tristan Detwiler




Scene: Nicholas Raefski’s second collection “Meet Me By The Bleachers” is inspired by his nostalgia for going to high school in the 1970s. Notions of false nostalgia – yearnings for something you never actually owned nor experienced. Lounging on bleachers, models wearing a variety of 70s inspired styles radiated a youthful energy that matched the clothing. Pastel shades, funky patterns, and confident color blocking were displayed under the warm glow of overhead lights. AstroTurf carpeting completed the image of a Friday night in the suburbs of 70s-era Southern California.
The eleven looks collection is divided into four groups: the jocks, the nerds, the punks, and the hippies.
Talent for the show: Hair by lead hairstylist Ashley Breken and team for Oribe, Makeup by lead makeup artist Jessica Marisol and team for AOFMPro using Dermalogica, Stylists Jules Wettreich, Footwear Puma, Converse, and Doc Martens.

Scene: Models at the presentation.
“Going to high school in the 1970s is something I have always felt nostalgic for, despite being born a few decades too late to have experienced it. High school is all about archetypes and stereotypes; being put in a box. But when we grow up these boxes vanish, we find we cannot be bound by one group or idea. I enjoy the challenge of taking something that I know little about from the past, thinking about it in the present, and designing it for the future”. Nicholas Raefski




Scene: Clara Son, South Korea born menswear designer, launched her collection “Exuvia Capsule”. The Fashion Institute of Technology graduate continues her journey into innovative designs with this collection by drawing inspiration from art, nature, and personal feelings. A futuristic fashion approach with minimalist under currents and otherwordly silhouettes.
Her debut collection was also inspired by a trip to Amsterdam’s Stedelijk Museum where she had an emotional experience while observing the work “Black Cloud” by Carlos Amorales, a paper cut-out ode to the monarch butterfly migration from Canada to Mexico. “It was very eerie”. She wanted to metamorphose the negative energy into beautiful artistry. Son plays with contemporary and historical shapes through ruching techniques and mixes heavyweight with lightweight materials to emulate the hardshells and soft underbellies of bugs. “Exuvia,” is described in an entomologists’ glossary as a cast off outer skin, a shedding of what is no longer needed.
At the end a modern dance ensued with seven dancers in flesh toned tights and two models from the presentation.
Talent for the show: Hair by lead hairstylist Kien Hoang and team for Oribe, Makeup by lead makeup artist Monique Rinard and team for AOFMPro using Dermalogica, Stylist Nyeelah Lewis, Footwear Camper Tracktori boots by Joseph Yi.

Scene: Models at the presentation.
“I used to love bugs growing up and when I was really having a challenging time, I told my friends that I felt like a bug”. Clara Son




Scene: Atelier Cillian by designer Stephen Mikhail, who was debuting his premiere collection “The Misdeeds of Dashwood”. Atelier Cillian enjoys pushing boundaries in menswear and masculinity. His inaugural collection was inspired by the Hellfire Clubs in Britain, first founded in 1718, where Members of Parliament and society elites fraternized in excessive indulgent in sensual pleasures after hours. “They would go buttoned up to work everyday passing laws that they would go and break later on in the evening,” Mikhail described. “Watching how politics were handled during Covid, this was my commentary on politicians behaving badly.”
Channeling this theme through looks of black and gray tweed suits styled with historically authentic top hats opposite red draped turtlenecks and tattoo-revealing sheer sleeves with fingerless leather gloves is the medium where Mikhail questions masculinity as well as who defines it. Atelier Cillian can be recognized for its inherent duality between masculine and feminine.
Talent for the show: Hair by lead hairstylist Christian Ceja-Compin and team for Oribe, Makeup by lead makeup artist Monique Rinard and team on behalf of AOFMPro using Dermalogica, Nail color Un/Dn Laqr, Stylist Kevin Breen, Footwear Florsheim.

Scene: Models at the presentation.
“I think there are a lot of amazing womenswear designers out there but womenswear doesn’t give me the challenge that I’m longing for, it doesn’t give me the boundaries that I can just crash through”. Stephen Mikhail

Special thanks to Helen Oppenheim, US Correspondent for Peluquerias Magazine, archivist, blogger, and hair historian, for asking me to collaborate during Fashion Week.






Sunflowers and Silk

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Scene: A week in the life of a scarf. DiFiore New York sunflower silk scarf and sarong which are part of the ‘Floral Seas’ collection. Their eco-friendly scarves are 100% lightweight silk twill printed by fine Italian artisans. Ms. DiFiore’s seasonless wearable silk art scarves are modern classics with a luxurious feel. For day or night, casual yet elegant. They are produced in small batches for quality control. Her passion for the ocean and water at a young age, and now her dedication to preserving our oceans, keeping them clean, and helping marine life from being decimated by pollution inspired her ‘Floral Seas’ collection.
The origins of the scarf goes back to Ancient Egypt, precisely to Queen Nefertiti, who was believed to have worn a woven wrapped scarf under an extravagant jewelled headpiece in 1350 BC. Scarves are one of the most essential versatile clothing accessories for both men and women.
Special thanks, Model and Opera Singer Sonia Fortezza, Locations Bluestone Lane 55 Hudson Yards Café and Hudson Yards.

Scene: DiFiore New York website. Learn more about the brand and shop https://difiorenewyork.com.
DiFiore New York will be donating a percentage of each Sunflower scarf sold to Save the Children – Ukraine Crisis Relief Fund.
 
 
 
 



Summer

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Scene: Summer wear. Bold colors, some like it hot. Pinks trend and a celebration of hues. Maxi and midi dresses, mini and micro skirts. Light weight designer coats and tailored blazers. Black and white of course and beigh too. Airy sheer fabrics and subdued flashes of skin. Florals and patterns, but mostly solids. Underwear outerwear and printed chiffon. Kicks, slides, sandals, clogs, Birkenstocks, Doc Martens, and high heels. All on a summer day.

 
 
 
 

NYMD Perry Ellis America

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Scene: The relaunch presentation of Perry Ellis America at New York Men’s Day (NYMD) Fall/Winter 2022. It was a rebranding of an American fashion classic with a modern fusion of iconic and bold pieces. The reimagined heritage brand by Perry Ellis’s VP of Design Thomas Harvey was inspired by American landscapes – whether that be a beach in the Northeast, the urban cityscape or out in nature. Kicking off New York Fashion Week was NYMD sponsored by Perry Ellis America.
The brand’s contemporary sportswear reinvention took on a new form with woolen overcoats, track suits, tops, bottoms, and accessories. Bold knitwear was designed with a reimagining of the American flag, recycled cotton denim was presented in contrasting blue-and-white chalk stripes, and bomber jackets received sleek fabric treatment. Collection highlights included a red-and-white hooded logo tracksuit, fleece full-zip jackets, insignia bucket hats and beanies, and oversized tote bags.
Talent for the show: Hair by lead hairstylist Jenelle Oldham and team for Oribe, Makeup by lead makeup artist Jessica Marisol and team on behalf of Aofmpro using Dermalogica, Styling Jim Moore, Casting Trew Productions, Public Relations Agentry PR, Footwear Sperry, and Venue Canoe Studios in Chelsea.

Scene: Leather invitation, with debossed logo and event information, and craft paper string and button envelope for the original Perry Ellis America launch which I designed and produced. The invitation was for the press and guests.
I worked with the fashion designer Perry Ellis. Heather from the advertising and marketing department called my advertising and design studio to set up an appointment to review my work in an interview with her and Perry. A few days later I was asked to join them to discuss various projects they wanted me to be involved with.
The invitation was inspired by the leather Levis label on the back of the jeans. In 1984, Perry Ellis America was created in cooperation with Levi Strauss.

Scene: One of the ads I art directed for Perry Ellis America. Photographed by Douglas Keeve in Coconut Grove, Miami.

Scene: Perry Ellis America Fall/Winter 2022 Presentation.

Scene: VP of Design Thomas Harvey (center) with models wearing his new Perry Ellis America collection. Photo courtesy of Perry Ellis America.

“I don’t make fashion – I make clothes. The clothes cross all the points of my personal lifestyle. They’re to wear in the city or the country, to work, or to go out” Perry Ellis.

Special thanks to Helen Oppenheim, US Correspondent for Peluquerias Magazine, archivist, blogger, and hair historian, for asking me to collaborate during Fashion Week.
 
 
 
 



NYFW Tanner Fletcher

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Scene: Design duo Tanner Richie and Fletcher Kasell’s Fall/Winter 2022 presentation “Housewarming Party” unveiled the brand’s first official in person presentation at New York Fashion Week. The stylish house party was a throw back to the late 60s and early 70s blending fashions of home and wardrobe, both modern and nostalgic. Tanner Fletcher is an emerging genderless brand based in Brooklyn specializing in responsibly designed ready to wear, handbags, pillows, and other small accessories that push the boundaries between masculinity and femininity. They are inspired by bygone eras, prints, and vintage interior materials such as upholstery fabric and wallpapers.
“It’s fun to almost redesign something that was meant for a kitchen wallpaper into a piece of clothing. For example, the Ivy trellis pattern is a reference to a 30s kitchen wallpaper”.
Talent for the show: Hair by lead hairstylist Mike Martinez and team for Cutler/Redken, Makeup by lead makeup artist Cici Chang and team for C.omak Makeup, Casting by Eric Cano of Cano Casting, Public Relations Jane Lerman of L.E.R. PR, Footwear Suzanne Rae Nomasei, and Venue Georgia Room at Freehand Hotel.

Scene: Moodboard F/W22. Photo courtesy of Tanner Fletcher.

Scene: Thea wearing Edmond Contrast Double Breasted Blazer, Eloise Contrast Button Stripe Pant with Laurence Silk Pussybow Shirt.

Scene: Saysha wearing Rita Double Breasted Floral Comforter Coat, Laurence Organic Cotton Pussybow Shirt with Fefe Flare Denim Pant.

Scene: Jjanga wearing Georgie Contrast Button Short Dress.

Scene: Colt wearing Rochelle Deep Neck Sweater, Winnie Lace Trim Boxer Short, Laurence Organic Cotton Pussybow Shirt with Trimmed Socks.

Scene: Suzanne Rae Nomasei footwear and Trimmed Socks.

Scene: Makeup by lead makeup artist Cici Chang and team with Calvin.

Scene: Makeup by lead makeup artist Cici Chang and team with Thea.

Scene: In the process. Hair by lead hairstylist Mike Martinez for Cutler Salons with Spencer.

Scene: In the process. Hair by lead hairstylist Mike Martinez for Cutler Salons with Spencer.

Scene: Spencer with his finished look. Hair by lead hairstylist Mike Martinez for Cutler Salons. Makeup and freckles by lead makeup artist Cici Chang and team.

Scene: Spencer wearing Simonette Pinstripe Belted Jacket with Sherpa and Simon Pinstripe Flare Denim Pant with Shearling. Keyshila wearing Tootsie Lampshade Fringe Blazer and Ruth Lampshade Trim Trouser inspired by a vintage lampshade.

Scene: Colt wearing Sylvester Lampshade Fringe Coat. The stand out and signature design at the Tanner Fletcher Fall/Winter 2022 Presentation was this Coat and Tailored Suit, above, both inspired by a vintage lampshade.

Scene: Calvin wearing Charlie Ivy Trellis Sweater Vest with pleated bell bottoms.

Scene: Madeleine wearing Ivy League Moire Track Jacket. Makeup and double eye liner by lead makeup artist Cici Chang and team. Hair by lead hairstylist Mike Martinez and team for Cutler Salons.

Scene: Anthony wearing Orville Ivy Trellis Cardigan, Darcy Smocked Button Down Shirt with Rhonda Pleated Denim Pant.

Scene: Anthony wearing Chandelier Crystal Earring, Darcy Smocked Button Down Shirt with Orville Ivy Trellis Cardigan. Hair by lead hairstylist Mike Martinez and team for Cutler Salons. Makeup and freckles by lead makeup artist Cici Chang and team.

Scene: Joe wearing Carlyle Floral Jacquard Pussybow Shirt and Clemence Floral Jacquard Pleated Trouser with Alvina Hand Knit Floral Sweater Vest.

Scene: Marcy Latch Leather Shirt and Trimmed Socks.

Scene: Hair by lead hairstylist Mike Martinez and team for Cutler Salons. Makeup, double eye liner and freckles by lead makeup artist Cici Chang and team.

Scene: Phil wearing Toxic Masculinity sweater. “Growing up as feminine gay boys in the Midwest, we have seen a lot of Toxic Masculinity and still see it today. It comes down to gender norms and the pressure for Men to “act” a certain way to maintain a certain amount of masculinity. In this collection, the Toxic Masculinity sweater was styled on a model with a beard and more masculine facial hair with a short pleated tennis skirt. The statement we’re trying to make here is that toxic masculinity is still running rampant and there is simply no room for it in modern culture”.

Scene: Spencer wearing Rita Double Breasted Plaid Comforter Coat.

Scene: Hair by lead hairstylist Mike Martinez for Cutler Salons. Makeup and freckles by lead makeup artist Cici Chang and team.

Scene: Diarra wearing Elton Double Breasted Shag Carpet Coat, Barry Diamond Knit Polo Sweater and Pheobe Diamond Knit Lounge Pant, Dimitry wearing Foliage Hanging Basket Intarsia Sweater with Gus Corduroy Cargo Pant. Madeleine wearing Ivy League Moire Track Jacket and Ivy League Moire Track Pant.

Scene: Diarra wearing Elton Double Breasted Shag Carpet Coat. Makeup and double eye liner by lead makeup artist Cici Chang and team. Hair by lead hairstylist Mike Martinez and team for Cutler Salons.

Scene: Dimitry wearing Foliage Hanging Basket Intarsia Sweater with Gus Corduroy Cargo Pant.

Scene: Anthony wearing Orville Ivy Trellis Cardigan, Darcy Smocked Button Down Shirt, with Rhonda Pleated Denim Pant. Madeleine wearing Ivy League Moire Track Jacket and Ivy League Moire Track Pant.

Scene: Frances wearing Marty Spread Collar Silk Shirt with Beverly Flare Plaid Pant. Hair by lead hairstylist Mike Martinez and team for Cutler Salons.

Scene: Michael wearing Sandy Tapestry Blazer, Mauricio Long Sleeve Cotton Turtleneck, and Fran Tapestry Pant. Hair by lead hairstylist Mike Martinez and team for Cutler Salons. Makeup and freckles by lead makeup artist Cici Chang and team.

Scene: Diarra wearing Otis Gingham Double Breasted Blazer, Bianca Wide Leg Belted Trouser with Terrell Angora Knit Tank Top.

Scene: Samantha wearing Clementine Lace Trim Blouse with Frederick Wide Leg Belted Trouser. Michael wearing Otis Gingham Double Breasted Blazer and Connie Gingham Belted Mid Length Dress with Trimmed Socks.

Scene: Angel wearing brown and white dress from this collection.

Scene: Frances wearing Barbra Lace Trim Ribbed Stretch Shirt, Wilson Smocked Turtleneck, Fefe Flare Denim Pant with Suzanne Rae Nomasei footwear.

Scene: Saysha wearing Rita Double Breasted Floral Comforter Coat, Laurence Organic Cotton Pussybow Shirt, and Fefe Flare Denim Pant with Suzanne Rae Nomasei footwear.

Scene: Thea wearing Edmond Contrast Double Breasted Blazer, Eloise Contrast Button Stripe Pant, Laurence Silk Pussybow Shirt with Suzanne Rae Nomasei footwear.

Scene: Many of the male models had freckles by lead makeup artist Cici Chang and team. Hair by lead hairstylist Mike Martinez and team for Cutler Salons.

Scene: Samantha wearing Marty Spread Collar Silk Shirt and Etta Elastic Waist Silk Pant. Jjanga wearing Georgie Contrast Button Short Dress.

Scene: Makeup and double eye liner by lead makeup artist Cici Chang and team. Hair by lead hairstylist Mike Martinez and team for Cutler Salons.

Scene: Dimitry wearing Marlton Floral Wrap Blazer and Midge Floral Pant with Suzanne Rae Nomasei footwear.

Scene: Samantha wearing Marty Spread Collar Silk Shirt and Etta Elastic Waist Silk Pant. Joe wearing Clara Closure Trail Oversized Shirt and Sebastian Closure Trail Trouser.

Scene: Fletcher wearing Irving Oversized Chandelier Blazer, Kenny Tweed Trouser with Barbra Lace Trim Ribbed Stretch Shirt. Tanner wearing Sandy Tapestry Blazer, Fran Tapestry Trouser with Matteo Lace Trim Ribbed Tank. https://tannerfletcherstudios.com/

Scene: Freehand’s neon signage at the entrance.

Special thanks to Helen Oppenheim, US Correspondent for Peluquerias Magazine, archivist,blogger, and hair historian, for asking me to collaborate during Fashion Week.